Chanel’s Resilience and Brilliance Shine at Paris Fashion Week

The world of fashion is no stranger to change, but fewhouses have navigated transitions with the grace and enduring allure of Chanel. As the storied maison awaits the arrival of its new creative director, Matthieu Blazy, this season’s Paris Fashion Week presented a moment of truth. Would Chanel, without a clear leader at its helm, falter or thrive? The answer was unequivocal. Under the majestic dome of the Grand Palais, Chanel did what it has done for over a century: it dazzled. The fall 2023 collection was a testament to the house’s timeless elegance, its unwavering commitment to craftsmanship, and its ability to evolve while staying true to its DNA.

A Masterclass in Elegance: The Collection Unveiled

The show opened with a dramatic flourish, the cavernous Grand Palais transformed by a colossal swirling black ribbon that coiled toward the ceiling, a bold, theatrical centerpiece that set the tone for the collection. The Vive La Beauté Pre collection, as it is called, was a masterclass in refinement and innovation, blending classic Chanel silhouettes with modern touches of transparency and surrealism. Sheer fabrics were a defining feature, with flowing blouses layered over tweed jackets, tulle overlays softening the lines of traditional tailoring, and diaphanous capes floating above classic Chanel suits. These elements infused the collection with an ethereal, almost dreamlike quality, as if the models were drifting down the runway rather than walking.

The interplay of structure and light was a recurring theme, with matte satin ribbons trimming military-inspired tweed jackets and delicate bows adorning balloon sleeves on sheer organza tops. Several looks featured a fluttering ribbon print that echoed the brand’s iconic interlocking Cs, a playful nod to Chanel’s heritage. In a bold experiment, the collection also showcased superimposed layers of the same fabric, creating surrealist effects—a cherry red tweed jacket, wrap skirt, and flared pants appeared together, complete with matching accessories like a boater hat, gloves, and boots. These looks were both daring and harmonious, proving that Chanel’s craftsmanship is as innovative as it is impeccable.

One accessory stole the show: a giant pearl handbag that appeared in multiple iterations, its playful yet luxurious design drawing instant admiration. The collection also flashed bursts of color—bright red tweed, vibrant silk linings, and bold layering—that harkened back to the vibrant energy of Karl Lagerfeld’s era. If this was a transitional collection, it was anything but tentative. Instead, it felt like a celebration of Chanel’s past, present, and future.

A Legacy of Inclusivity: Naomi Campbell Reflects

Naomi Campbell, one of the most iconic faces in fashion, sat front row at the show, her presence a reminder of Chanel’s enduring appeal across generations and cultures. In an interview with the Associated Press, Campbell reflected on the collection’s nostalgic ’90s influences, praising its wearable silhouettes and timeless craftsmanship. “I love the artisan, the workmanship,” she said. “They go back and look into the history of the DNA of the brand—that’s what they think of first and foremost. And then they create it, but with that twist on it.”

Campbell also paid tribute to the late Karl Lagerfeld, whose vision shaped Chanel for decades. “I miss his honesty,” she said. “He had a soft spot, but he never sugarcoated anything. We always worked at night, and sometimes he’d tell me to stay over. It was such an incredible time. His presence is still felt, always.” Her words underscored the enduring impact of Lagerfeld’s legacy, which continues to inspire the house today.

But Campbell’s admiration for Chanel extends beyond its clothing. She highlighted the brand’s commitment to diversity, pointing to milestones like Lupita Nyong’o’s appointment as a house ambassador and the groundbreaking Métiers d’Art show in Dakar, Senegal, in 2022—a first for a major luxury brand. “That, to me, is action,” she said. “I’m really proud that I got to witness that in my lifetime in this business.” Campbell, who has long been an advocate for greater inclusivity in fashion, has faced her own battles with racism in the industry. Yet, she remains optimistic about the progress being made, even if it’s slow.

Modern Elegance and Family Ties: Riley Keough Speaks Out

Front row at the show was Riley Keough, actress, model, and granddaughter of Elvis Presley, who has become a key ambassador for the brand. Her presence added a touch of rock-and-roll glamour to the proceedings, and she couldn’t help but express her enthusiasm for the collection. “It’s amazing,” she said. “I feel so lucky to be involved with the house.”

Keough, who has a reputation for her edgy personal style, revealed that her fashion choices often lean toward the androgynous. “I typically go for something a little more androgynous,” she said, though she admitted that Chanel’s timeless elegance has broadened her palette. Beyond her work with the brand, Keough has stepped into another significant role: custodian of Graceland, Elvis Presley’s legendary estate. After the passing of her mother, Lisa Marie Presley, in 2023, Keough embraced this responsibility, balancing the weight of her grandfather’s legacy with her own voice and values. “I really just try and follow what my mother did,” she said. “I feel lucky to have seen how she wanted Graceland represented. It’s about respecting what’s come before while still finding my own path.”

As Chanel prepares for a new chapter under Matthieu Blazy, the excitement is palpable. “Everyone’s really excited,” Keough said. “Chanel has such a huge legacy, and it’s got to be right—but I don’t think it will disappoint.” Her words captured the sentiment of many in attendance: a sense of anticipation and trust in the brand’s ability to evolve while staying true to its values.

Fashion as a Cultural Force

Fashion is often dismissed as frivolous, but moments like Chanel’s latest show remind us of its power to transcend the runway. The collection itself was a celebration of craftsmanship, innovation, and timelessness, but it was also a reflection of the cultural shifts that are reshaping the industry. From its commitment to diversity and inclusivity to its willingness to engage with global talent and traditions, Chanel is proving that fashion can be both a force for change and a guardian of heritage.

The brand’s efforts to foster cultural exchange, particularly through its work in Dakar, are a prime example of this. By bringing students from Senegal to Paris and sending artisans to Africa, Chanel is Building bridges between traditions and fostering a dialogue that enriches its designs and broadens its perspective. In an industry often accused of being insular, such initiatives are a breath of fresh air.

Naomi Campbell’s advocacy and Riley Keough’s ambassadorship are just two examples of how Chanel is engaging with a diverse, global audience. The presence of stars like Dakota Fanning, Simone Ashley, Raye, and AP Dhillon in the front row further underscored the brand’s cross-generational and cross-cultural appeal. This is a house that understands its responsibility to represent the world it inhabits, even as it continues to shape it.

Looking Ahead

As the lights dimmed on the Grand Palais, it was clear that Chanel had once again proved its resilience. The house may be in a period of transition, but the collection showed no signs of uncertainty. Instead, it exuded confidence and clarity, a testament to the strength of Chanel’s DNA and the