The Last Bloom in the Garment District: The Story of M&S Schmalberg
A Once-Thriving Industry Now Fading Away
In the heart of New York City’s Midtown, the Garment District was once the epicenter of the textile industry, bustling with manufacturers, retailers, and wholesalers. Among them were dozens of artificial flower makers, crafting intricate blooms that adorned everything from fashion designs to movie costumes. Today, this once-booming industry has largely disappeared, leaving behind only one artificial flower producer: M&S Schmalberg. Adam Brand, the fourth-generation owner of this family-run business, recalls the district’s heyday, describing it as “alive” with hundreds of thousands of people working tirelessly to create clothing and textiles. Now, in a sea of towering skyscrapers and changing times, M&S Schmalberg stands as the last remnant of a bygone era. “Today, I know one feather guy, and we’re the last flower guys,” Brand said with a mix of nostalgia and pride.
A Legacy of Handcrafted Elegance
For 109 years, M&S Schmalberg has been perfecting the art of creating custom fabric flowers by hand in its West 36th Street workshop. The company’s flowers have graced the red carpets, runways, and screens of Hollywood, earning a reputation for unparalleled craftsmanship. From high-end fashion houses like Tory Burch, Hermès, and Carolina Herrera to A-list celebrities such as Prince Harry, Meghan Markle, and Gwen Stefani, M&S Schmalberg’s creations have become synonymous with elegance and sophistication. One of their most iconic projects was the “Frankenstein Flower,” a unique blossom made from various die-cut petals, worn by Gwen Stefani and Emily Ratajkowski. The company even supplied 1,500 fabric flowers for Season 2 of Netflix’s Bridgerton, further cementing its place in pop culture history.
From Humble Beginnings to Global Recognition
The journey of M&S Schmalberg began when Adam Brand’s grandfather, Harold, immigrated to New York City after surviving the Holocaust. He found refuge with his relatives, Sam and Morris Schmalberg, who owned a small flower factory. Harold eventually took over the business and passed it down to his son, Warren, who later handed the reins to Adam. Despite its rich history, Adam didn’t always see himself continuing the family legacy. “My dad was the flower man, and it’s all he talked about: flowers, flowers,” he recalled. Yet, today, he is the proud custodian of a business that employs a team of skilled artisans, some of whom have been with the company for over 35 years.
The Art of Crafting Artificial Blooms
The process of creating M&S Schmalberg’s signature flowers is a labor of love, requiring meticulous attention to detail and a deep understanding of the craft. The team starts by starching and stretching fabric, then uses vintage molds—some over a century old—to cut and emboss the petals, giving them shape and texture. The final touches are added by hand: a delicate dot of glue applied with the pinky finger, petals folded to create a three-dimensional effect, or a plastic stamen pulled through the center of the flower. While a simple custom flower starts at $36, more elaborate designs can cost hundreds of dollars. One of their most extravagant creations was a black leather camellia adorned with 1,000 hand-placed Swarovski crystals, worn by Paris Hilton at the 2023 Met Gala. “I don’t remember how much it was, but I remember it being a lot,” Brand admitted with a chuckle.
Adapting to the Modern Market
While M&S Schmalberg has maintained its traditional craftsmanship, the company has evolved to meet the demands of the modern market. In addition to catering to high-end fashion and entertainment, the business now welcomes walk-in customers and offers weekly workshop tours, allowing visitors to glimpse the artistry behind their artificial flowers. They also sell their creations online via platforms like Amazon and Etsy, a far cry from the days when Adam’s grandfather could never have imagined selling flowers to strangers on the internet. “If you told my grandpa we were selling a thousand flowers a year to strangers on the internet for $10, $20, $30, $40 each, he would think that’s pretty cool,” Brand said. This adaptability has been key to the company’s survival in an increasingly tech-driven world.
The Future of a Timeless Craft
Looking ahead, Adam Brand remains hopeful about the future of M&S Schmalberg, though he acknowledges the challenges of operating in a world dominated by AI and automation. “Us existing in five, 10, 20 years would be an accomplishment in this world of AI and tech,” he said. As for whether his two young daughters—or the third on the way—will one day take over the family business, he isn’t sure. For now, he’s content to keep the legacy alive, one flower at a time. While the Garment District may no longer be the bustling hub it once was, M&S Schmalberg continues to bloom, a testament to the enduring beauty of handmade craftsmanship in an era of mass production. And as long as there’s a demand for bespoke artificial flowers, this little shop on West 36th Street will remain a rare and precious gem in the heart of New York City.
