Prada reconstructs femininity starting with the little black dress fit to dark times

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Prada’s Milan Fashion Week Show: A Reflection of Challenging Times and Liberation Through Fashion

Setting the Tone: A “Very Black Moment” in Fashion

Prada kicked off its runway show during Milan Fashion Week on Thursday with a collection that reflected the somber mood of the world. Miuccia Prada, the brand’s creative director, described the current global climate as “a very black moment,” both literally and metaphorically. The show opened with a series of little black dresses, a classic wardrobe staple reimagined to fit the mood of the times. Prada emphasized that the collection was designed with the modern woman in mind, focusing on creating clothes that make sense for her today. “To work in this difficult moment is really tough,” Prada admitted backstage, sidestepping overtly political discussions but making it clear that her designs are a response to the challenges women face.

Liberation Through Fashion: Breaking Free from Tradition

The Fall-Winter 2025-26 collection was all about liberation. Prada and co-creative director Raf Simons aimed to free women from the constraints of traditional feminine forms. The little black dresses and other runway looks were intentionally loose and not body-hugging, offering a sense of comfort and freedom. Simons explained that liberation is, in itself, an act of resistance. “You cannot be liberated if you don’t take a risk. There needs to be more resistance,” he said. The collection featured playful touches, such as girlish knit dresses with oversized proportions, reminiscent of Alice in Wonderland, layered over trousers. Pajamas also made an appearance, transitioning seamlessly into daywear with button tops tucked into sleeper skirts.

Raw Edges and Flexible Forms: Rejecting Constricting Construction

Prada and Simons rejected rigid construction in their designs, opting instead for raw seams, adjustable waistlines, and a focus on movement. Garments were designed to be flexible, with waistlines that could be moved to create midi-skirts or minidresses. “I would also say that we have rejected a lot of construction,” Simons said, specifically referencing constructions that restrict movement. The collection emphasized practicality and versatility, offering pieces that could be worn in multiple ways. This approach not only reflected the liberation theme but also catered to the modern woman’s need for comfort and adaptability.

Glamour in the Everyday: Mixing High Fashion with Casual Elements

Prada’s collection was a mix of high glamour and everyday wear. Short-sleeve and tube knitwear tops were adorned with baubles, giving them a touch of glamour. Men’s shirts were scrunched messily at the waist, as if they had come untucked, adding a casual, effortless vibe. Faux fur stoles, fur lapels, and a striking lime green poncho added a luxurious touch to coats and blazers. The collection offered a sense of mix-and-match versatility, with pieces that could be worn as separates or combined to create a variety of looks. This approach made high fashion accessible and wearable for everyday life.

A Star-Studded Front Row: Prada’s Show of Support and Inclusivity

The Prada show attracted a star-studded front row, including American actress Hunter Schafer, Juliette Binoche, Gal Gadot, Maya Hawke, and Chen Haoyu, among others. Schafer, a trans actress, was invited as a show of support, the designers said. Her recent post about receiving a passport with a male gender marker highlighted the importance of inclusivity, a value Prada seemed to embrace. Fans gathered outside the Fondazione Prada show space to catch a glimpse of the VIPs, adding to the hype surrounding the event. The presence of such a diverse group of celebrities underscored Prada’s commitment to inclusivity and representation.

Industry Buzz: Prada’s Potential Move to Acquire Versace

Amid the excitement of the show, Milan was abuzz with speculation about whether an Italian company might acquire the rival fashion house Versace. The Prada Group, which owns several brands including Miu Miu, Church’s, Car Shoe, and Marchesi 1824, was at the center of the rumors. When asked about the possibility, Prada chuckled and said, “I think it is on everybody’s table.” While she did not confirm any plans, her response hinted that the option was being considered. If true, such a move could have significant implications for the fashion industry, further consolidating Prada’s position as a major player in luxury fashion. For now, the rumors remain speculative, but they add an extra layer of intrigue to Prada’s already impressive show.

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