The Revival of Commandaria: Cyprus’s Ancient Wine Seeks a Modern Spotlight
Introduction to Commandaria
Commandaria, an ancient wine from Cyprus, boasts a legacy that stretches back nearly 3,000 years. Praised by Homer and Euripides, it is recognized as the world’s oldest named and recorded wine. Despite its rich historical roots, Commandaria has struggled to carve out a niche in the global wine market. However, micro-wineries in Cyprus are now reviving traditional winemaking techniques, breathing new life into this venerable wine and aiming to bring it back into the spotlight.
A Rich Historical and Cultural Legacy
commandaria’s historical significance is profound. It is said to have won the world’s first recorded wine competition during the 13th century under French King Philippe Augustus. English King Richard the Lionheart served it at his wedding in 1191, and it was a favorite at the Feast of the Five Kings in the 14th century. Originally known as "nama," the wine was later renamed by the Knights Hospitaller, who established their headquarters at the Grande Commanderie. The Orthodox Church further embraced Commandaria as its communion wine during Byzantine times, and it flourished under Venetian rule in the 15th and 16th centuries.
The Challenges of Modern Times
Despite its illustrious past, Commandaria has faced challenges in the modern era. Annual production has been around 200,000 bottles, constrained by waning demand. The loss of 800,000 Russian tourists due to sanctions following Russia’s invasion of Ukraine has further impacted sales. Efforts to expand into the Chinese market have stalled, and marketing has been a significant hurdle. Even the main producer, KEO, has been slow to recognize the potential of Commandaria, particularly its older vintages. Wine expert Demetri Walters notes that while Commandaria’s quality and historical value are exceptional, poor marketing has limited its global reach.
The Role of Micro-Wineries in Revival
Micro-wineries like Revecca and Karseras are leading the charge in Commandaria’s revival. Revecca, located in the mountain village of Ayios Mamas, has built a loyal following since opening in 2015. Its Commandaria won a top prize at a national wine competition, showcasing the heights this wine can reach. Nikolas Christodoulides, curator of Revecca, emphasizes a focus on quality over quantity, experimenting with bespoke varieties to cater to client tastes. The winery’s success includes international clients who travel to Cyprus to replenish their stock, highlighting the personal connection and craftsmanship that define these small producers.
The Art of Crafting Commandaria
Commandaria is crafted from the indigenous grapes Mavro and Xynisteri, which are sun-dried for seven to 12 days to enhance sweetness. The wine is aged in reused oak barrels for at least two years, adhering to strict EU regulations that protect its designation of origin. Authentic Commandaria is produced in 14 villages on the southern face of the Troodos mountain range, where grapes bask in sunlight throughout the day. Some wineries produce a darker, sweeter version using only Mavro grapes, appealing to those who prefer a richer profile.
Future Prospects and the Path Forward
While Commandaria faces challenges such as shifting market trends and limited marketing, there is optimism about its future. Wineries are focusing on improving quality and winning over the domestic market before expanding internationally. As consumers increasingly seek unique, high-quality products with a story, Commandaria’s ancient heritage and distinctive flavor profile could carve out a niche in the global wine market. The dedication of small wineries to tradition and excellence may just propel this ancient wine into a new era of appreciation.
